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Collect filler wood dust I find that the best method for repairing cracks and holes in projects is to use a paste made of sanding dust and glue (CA or epoxy) as a filler. The trick is in collecting enough fine dust from the species of wood that I need. My solution is to add a screen I made from 1/2” mesh hardware cloth over the dust collection port behind my lathe. Then I cover this with a single ply of paper towel. After turning it round, I run the lathe in reverse and sand a scrap of whatever species I happen to need. In a matter of minutes, I have enough dust collected on the towel to make my filler. Bill WellsOlympia, Washington Tiered bit holes I was recently outfitting the drawers in my router table to hold my growing collection of bits. After pondering whether to drill more 1/4” or 1/2” holes, it occurred to me that I didn’t have to decide. I could simply drill each hole twice: the first time making a somewhat shallow cut with a 1/2” bit, then the second time a deeper cut with a 1/4” bit. Now I can store bits with similar profiles next to each other without having to worry about what size shank they have. I have since learned that MicroJig makes a stepped router bit that does this all in one go. Janelle WatsonSpruce Pine, North Carolina Flush trimming plugs For as simple a task as it is, trimming plugs flush to a surface can be surprisingly frustrating. If you try to chisel off the excess, the plug frequently tears out beneath the surrounding surface, yet if you try to saw it off, you risk scarring that same surface. To reduce that possibility, I drill a hole slightly larger than the plug through an expired credit card. Then I use the card as a mask to protect the surrounding surface as I saw off the excess plug. That accomplished, it is a simple matter to scrape, sand, or pare what little remains of the excess flush. Jeff PetersRedgranite, Wisconsin Zip clamps I make a lot of bandsaw boxes. Clamping these irregular shapes to close up the saw kerfs can be a challenge. Both bungee cords and zip ties (or a combination thereof) make excellent and inexpensive clamps. Simply wrap the appropriate combination of these two common hardware store items around your workpiece and cinch them tight. In the event the joint doesn’t close, you may be able to add a bit of scrap or a cutoff to direct pressure where it is needed. Ken PetersSpring Hill, Florida

Non-tip sled I only have enough room in my shop for a job-site table saw. It gets the job done, but its small table presents some challenges, especially with regard to my crosscut sled. When I first made it, I had trouble with the sled tipping both as I was starting a cut on the near side of the blade and again on the far side of the blade as I completed the operation. In looking at my saw, I realized that the miter gauge slots were “T-slots” with an undercut at the bottom. Therein was the solution to my problem. I bought a short length of aluminum miter bar stock that had little wings that fit into the T-slots on my saw. From this, I cut four 1-1/2” pieces and screwed them to the underside of my sled aligned with the ends of its carefully-fit hardwood runners. Now, once the sled is in place on the saw, it holds itself up on either side of the cut, making it much easier to control. As a side benefit, I added two 2” lengths of aluminum T-track to the side of my saw stand for hanging the sled when not in use. David RileyLa Valle, Wisconsin Shop-made plywood tote Let’s face it, moving full sheets of plywood isn’t fun, even if you have help. And if you have to do it alone, it can be a downright nightmare. The sheets are awkward to handle and can be quite heavy, a combination that makes a strained back and/or bruised edges likely. To make this onerous task easier, I made a plywood tote from an 18’ length of 3/8” rope and a 6” piece of 1” diameter PVC pipe. To make the tote, tie the ends of the rope together with a fisherman’s knot, then pass the doubled rope through the pipe which serves as a handle. Loop the ends of the rope around the lower corners of the sheet. Reach over the top of the sheet to grab the handle and lift. Richard EntwistleHighland Lakes, New Jersey Adding traction to cauls When gluing irregularly shaped, or angled pieces, I frequently make specially-shaped cauls to direct clamping pressure where I want it. Occasionally, I’ll tape or glue these cauls to the pieces to keep them from slipping out of place. But often, all that is needed is to add medium grit sand paper to the face of the caul in contact with the work piece. Adhere the sandpaper with spray adhesive, or double-sided tape. Sarah MarriageBaltimore, Maryland Fast and flawless chamfers I make a lot of charcuterie boards with chamfered edges. I have found the fastest and cleanest way to cut this decorative detail is on the table saw. To get set up, position your fence on the side of the saw to which your blade tilts—to the left of the blade on a left tilt saw as shown above. Clamp a 3 × 18” length of sheet stock to the fence to serve as a spoil board. Tilt the blade to 45° and, with the saw on, raise it until it just barely cuts into the spoil board’s surface. Adjust the fence position and the blade height to change the chamfer’s width. Lower the blade before moving the fence closer for a narrower chamfer and vice versa for a wider one. To make a cut, simply run the workpiece along the fence. For safety when cutting across the ends of narrower boards, push them with a follower board. Ethan WeilandSt. Augustine, Florida

Tool bundles for the adventurous woodworker To ring in the new year, we’ve rounded up four sets of tools, books, and inspiration to get you, or a loved one, started in a new discipline. Simon Easton’s Learn to Burn, will teach you pyrography fundamentals. Or get out into nature with Emmet Van Driesche’s beautiful Greenwood Spoon Carving. For the epoxy-curious, Jess Crow’s new book, Epoxy Resin, provides straight-forward instruction and fun, introductory projects. And if you’re enamored with airbrushing, but have no idea where to start, Airbrushing 101 by Maryellen Vettori and Bob Keeling demystifies this versatile tool. For each niche, we’ve gathered some starter tools for you, plus an artist to follow on social media for inspiration. Pyrography Learn to embellish wood surfaces with hot irons and fire! We have two tool-package options for you here: The economical Wall Lenk 10-in-1 Tool Kit will get you started, but the variable-temperature Razertip gear, when purchased together, will take you farther in the long run. Learn to Burnby Simon Easton$16.99, #856339 Wall Lenk10 in 1 Woodburning Tool Kit$51.99, #127290 RazertipWoodburning Pen Power Supply$119.99, #160476 RazertipHD Tip Cord for Interchangeable Tip Pen$18.99, #160480 RazertipInterchangeable Tip Pen (connects to Razertip power supply)$34.99, #160478 RazertipPyrography Pen Tip Set for Interchangeable Tip Pen$24.99, #160535 Alex Peter Idoko’s photorealistic pyrography will boggle your mind. Follow him on Instagram @alexpeter_idoko Greenwood Spoon Carving To start carving spoons this winter, all you’ll need is a tree, a saw, a hatchet, and a couple of knives. With the right techniques, handholds, and safety practices (described in Greenwood Spoon Carving) you’ll soon be creating beautiful utensils of your own. FiskarsPower Tooth 10” Folding Saw$23.98, lowes.com BisonOutdoor Hatchet$89.99, #175034 Greenwood Spoon Carvingby Emmet Van Driesche$48.00, mortiseandtenonmag.com WhizardSafety Glove$23.99, #06I62 (Medium) FlexcutSloyd Knife$62.99, #166936 FlexcutSingle Bevel Sloyd Hook Knife$78.99, #163745 Emmet Van Driesche is a professional spoon carver exploring what it means to live a good life. Follow him on Instagram @emmet_van_driesche Epoxy Resin We’ve listed a handful of essentials to get you started with epoxy resin, and you’ll also need mixing cups, stir sticks, gloves, and other shop staples listed in Epoxy Resin. Don’t miss our safety section here or Crow’s safety chapters in her book. Then start pouring magic projects! WagnerFurno 500 Dual-Temperature Heat Gun$49.99, #183501 Wall LenkBella Tavola Mini Torch$29.99, #168259 Epoxy Resin, The Complete Guide for Artists, Builders, and Makersby Jess Crow$29.95, #188799 Black Diamond PigmentsMica Powder Variety Pack$19.99, #188145 TotalBoatMakerPoxy Crystal Clear Artist Resin$59.99, #181317 MixolUniversal Pigments$6.99 each, #832386 California Air ToolsPressure Pot for Resin Casting$299.99, #166300 Jess Crow is a noted epoxy resin artist and teacher. Follow her on Instagram @crowcreekdesigns Airbrushing For illustrative surface decoration, small-scale spray finishing or finish repair, this Grex airbrush might be your new best friend in the woodshop. You’ll need a compressor with a pressure regulator to power the tool, and the instructions in Airbrushing 101 to get you started. Airbrushing 101by Maryellen Vettori and Bob Keeling$49.99, theairbrushinstitute.com CreatexAir Brushing Paints$5.03 each, artistcraftsman.com GREXTritium TG Micro Spray Gun Set$298.00, #168093 Melina Wuggonig paints freehand airbrush portraits on wood. Follow her on Instagram @art_by_melina Safety Gear Protect your lungs, skin, and brain! When working with epoxy resin or airbrushing paints, you’ll need a good vapor mask like this one, plus goggles and an apron. Be sure to read each book’s safety sections for more safety basics, like wearing gloves and covering your skin. ElipseRespirator OV/P100$59.99, #164241 Texas Canvas Wares16 oz Waxed Canvas Apron$44.99, #181310 PyramexCapstone 500 Safety Goggle$20.99, #174677 (Med/Lg)

Turning duplicates In need of a number of duplicate spindles, I hit upon this method of turning them with the aid of a template. The challenging part was finding the right size post to fit the lathe’s banjo. I used a short length of 3/4” steel pipe wrapped with a bit of sheet metal to increase its diameter. Thread a floor flange on to the top of the pipe and then screw the flange to a 1-1/2 × 3” hardwood platform cut about 1/2” longer than the pieces you intend to turn. Screw a matching length of 3/16 × 1” band iron to one side to serve as a tool rest. To make the template, lay out half the shape of your spindle on a strip of 1/4” thick material, aligning the spindle’s centerline with one edge. Bandsaw the template to shape, then file and sand the curves true. Fasten the template to the platform with double-faced tape. Before turning, add 1/4” thick followers to your scrapers. I find three tools—a flat, a round nose, and a diamond point—generally handle every situation. Shape the followers to match the ends of their chisels and fasten them with 5/8” electrical ground clamps. To set up and calibrate the template, turn all your blanks round as usual. If the parts have a tenon(s), turn it to size on the last blank. Then swap your regular toolrest for the platform, aligning it parallel to the lathe’s axis. Rest your first chisel on the platform with its handle perpendicular to the axis. Extend the chisel until its tip just touches the tenon (or other established radius), then slide the follower until it touches the corresponding tenon portion of the template and tighten it in place. Repeat for the other tools. Now you should be able to scrape all the blanks to a uniform shape by guiding your chisels along the template. Walter ColtonWellsboro, Pennsylvania Shop-made “locking” pliers While I wouldn’t want to give up my traditional steel locking pliers, there are times when they just aren’t quite right for the job at hand. Their serrated jaws might damage a delicate part, their grip might be a little too tight, and even the needle-nose version can be too big at times. To make a more delicate version, I stretch a rubber band around the handles of a non-locking set of pliers that has jaws of the appropriate shape for what I need to hold. I can easily adjust the tension with my choice of rubber band and/or by how many wraps I make around the handles. One of my favorite uses for this trick is when I need to drive in very small brads. Here I use a set of jeweler’s pliers with round looping tips that let the brad slide easily when it is struck. Tony AdamsWellsboro, Pennsylvania Corralling a belt sander Belt sanders can make quick work of sanding parts. And when those parts are small, such as when I need to sand a chamfer on the end of a bunch of dowels, it is much easier and safer to move them past the sander instead of moving the sander past them. As much as I’d like to have a stationary belt sander, I don’t really have the space or budget for one. So when the situation arises, I turn my hand-held sander upside down and fix it to my bench. To make this easier, I devised a mounting plate that I can set up in a matter of seconds. It consists of a 3/4” plywood base with four protruding 1/2” dowels positioned to hold the sander. A single clamp is enough to hold it to bench, while gravity holds the sander in place. Jim KellyTrappe, Pennsylvania

I recently acquired a few midcentury George Nelson/Herman Miller pieces with watermarks, scratches, and gouges. Can I repair them at all without ruining their provenance and value? Steve KlineGilbertsville, PA The short answer? Yes, but carefully. There are two general approaches to preserving vintage pieces: restoration and conservation. These antique furniture treatments are often confused, so let’s define them here. Restoration returns the piece back to how it was when new. Usually this involves removal of the original finish and replacing worn or missing elements before refinishing. When done incorrectly, the value of the work is easily destroyed. If you choose this path, I recommend employing a specialist. Conservation freezes the piece in time in its current state. Furniture that is in good condition, only requiring a light cleaning and joinery stabilization, can be conserved and still used. The closer to being intact and original, the higher the value retained. To go the conservation route while preserving the integrity and value of a piece, follow a few general rules. Repairs must stand the test of time or be reversible (or both). If an upholstered or woven seat is broken, replace it by exactly copying the original. Same goes for missing wood elements and hardware. Repairs to joinery, doors, and drawers must be hidden. Finishes, however, are always kept intact, flaws and all. But, with some careful cleaning and a thin application of shellac, wax, oil, or sometimes soap, the pieces can be comfortably used and their flaws diminished. A Herman Miller piece likely has a catalyzed film finish on it. If it’s in good condition, gently clean and apply a coat of wax. If the finish is worn, a thin shellac will seal it and even out the sheen. (Always test on a hidden area first.) It sounds like you’ll be a fine steward of these pieces and keep them going for more generations to enjoy. About the author David Johnson of Sidecar Furniture in Los Angeles, CA specializes in the conservation of Danish Modern chairs with woven seats. He places a high emphasis on historical accuracy and preservation of patina.

The 3-1/2"-diameter body of the WoodRiver® chuck features a tri-gib profile on the master jaw slides to provide a smoother and more stable movement. Chuck also features a wide range of jaw movement, quick action and a powerful grip in either expansion or contraction modes. Equipped with 50 mm jaws, chuck will expand and grip in a 2"-2-3/4" dovetail recess in the base of your turning. Chuck firmly holds round stock between 1-5/8" and 2-7/16" diameter. No disassembly or tools are required to use the accompanying woodworm screw, which has a 1-1/4"-long right-hand thread.

System is comprised of a precision pivoting miter gauge made from steel plate with 13 positive stops at 0°, 22-1/2°, 30°, 45°, 60°, 67-1/2° and 90° in both directions. These positive stops are simple to adjust with a spring-loaded plunger stop that “snaps” in the machined holes. Any angle between 0°-90° can also be set as needed with the large clamping knob.A 17-1/2"-long anodized aluminum alloy fence is fitted with an adjustable flip-stop for repeatable accuracy. The fence can be calibrated easily by sliding along the miter gauge head and held true with two thumb screws. The miter bar can be fitted to a standard 3/4" x 3/8" table slot using unique spring-loaded rollers that keep the bar tight against one side of the miter slot. A T-slot washer is included for wider crosscut operations. You can trust the Snap-Set Miter Gauge and Fence System to improve safety and accuracy when crosscutting or cutting miters on the table saw, as well as when routing end grain or miters on the router table.

The most frustrating part is that sometimes a wide blade will rotate and get stuck. With a little bit of patience and some protective gloves it's easy to coax it out. Be sure you check your bandsaws manual for specifics but most of the steps should be very similar between our saw and your saw. If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment below. Or stop into your local Woodcraft store!

Ergonomic bandsaw push block I do a lot of resawing to save on lumber costs when I need thinner stock. To make this process safer, I devised a U-shaped push block with a nonslip pad on one side, a hook on the other, and integral handles in the center. In use, the block rides flat on the table with the nonslip side against the workpiece, as I grip the nearest handle in my right hand. Having my hand in this position allows me to twist my wrist subtly to apply pressure as needed. Near the end of the cut, I turn the block around to engage the hooked side to safely push the piece past the blade. I made my block from 3/4” plywood, pocket-screwed together with two jumbo Shaker pegs serving as the handles because that’s what I had on hand. You could use dowels or even square sticks with rounded corners. Dwayne SmytheWest Springfield, Massachusetts Cord stress relief A while ago, I noticed the cord on my miter saw was starting to show signs of wear near where it is plugged into the wall. In thinking about it, it’s not that surprising; the power cord is pulled with each cut and with each swing from square to 45 degrees and back. To help mitigate the stress on the plug, I made a cord holder from a block of scrap which I then attached to the back of the saw’s cabinet. The process is simple: drill two 3/8” holes through the scrap and lightly chamfer the edges with a countersink bit. Then bandsaw slots to open up the holes. To install the cord, loop it down through one hole and up through the other. Wrap electric tape around the cord to adjust the fit. For a tight hold, pull the wrapped part of the cord into the slot; for a looser grip just wrap the cord above (or below) the block. David DePauwCincinnati, Ohio Perfect routed dados In theory, routing a dado for a piece of stock to fit into should be a straightforward operation. But in reality, it can be pretty tricky as the stock thickness rarely matches the exact diameter of the bit at hand. So rather than relying on this dubious wood-to-tool relationship, I made a parallelogram fence system that accommodates any thickness of stock from 1/2” on up. To make the rig, saw 3/4”-thick plywood 4” wide and 8” longer than your dadoes. Make the arms and fasten them to the two primary fences with carriage bolts and star knobs as shown. For alignment, attach a secondary fence perpendicular to one of the primary fences. In use, sandwich the piece you want to fit in the dado on end between the two primary fences and tighten the knobs. Ease the captured piece loose then clamp both fences to the piece you intend to dado, positioning the fences on either side of the dado’s location. Chuck a 1/2” pattern bit in your router and cut the dado to depth guiding the bearing up one fence and back along the other. Juanita DomingoBakersfield, California Cleaning up inside corners When gluing up drawers and cabinets there is inevitably a little glue squeeze out in the inside corners that can be a nuisance to clean up. I find the best way to tackle this is with a putty knife. I wait for the glue to become rubbery and remove the worst of it with the knife. Then I wrap some fine sandpaper around the end of the knife and secure it with duct tape. Now I can sand away any residual glue by working the knife right into the corner. Dan MartinGalena, Ohio

I have several woodworking machines that can run on 120 or 240V. What should I consider when deciding what voltage to run them at? Kris MortonHouston, TX Voltage decisions. Many larger woodworking machines provide the option, and wiring diagram, to run on 120 or 240V. But what’s best for you and your machines? Most benchtop tools are strictly 120V, but jointers 6” or wider, 14” bandsaws, belt/disc sanders, and maybe even your table saw may offer dual voltage options. If your machines offer dual voltage motors (120 or 240V) and your shop has the capability to run those machines at 240V, that would be my preference. Typically, a drill press or 14” bandsaw has less than a 1.5 HP motor and won’t draw a lot of current (amperage) at start up, so 120 or 240V would both work fine. The real advantage comes with tools like stationary belt sanders, larger bandsaws, and table saws. These units’ motors require a lot of amps at start up, and at 120V you will notice the machine will labor to start and get up to speed. I had a Rockwell 10” Unisaw that was wired for 120V. When I brought it home and tried to use it in my garage it would always pop a breaker before it could get up to speed. Additionally, choosing 240V will actually save you a bit of money because the motor will not generate as much heat allowing it to run cooler and more efficiently. And you may be able to run two or more machines on the same circuit as well as a dust collector without constant fear of tripping the breaker. About the author David King is the owner of Shop Specialties Inc. in Nazareth, PA. He services equipment in high school and middle school shops in over 80 school districts throughout Pennsylvania, New Jersey and New York. Safety first Be sure to consult a qualified electrician and your local electrical codes when making any changes to the electrical service in your workshop.

ArmorGlide Will Change the Way You Work Powermatic® has introduced a game-changing innovation for woodworking tools: its new ArmorGlide Technology. It is an industrial-strength coating used in select Powermatic bandsaws, table saws, and jointers, giving them low-friction work surfaces, rust resistance, and eliminating some maintenance needs. ArmorGlide coating is exceptionally durable, able to withstand 250,000 passes without showing signs of wear. Check out some of the details. Enhanced Visibility. ArmorGlide’s dark surface reduces glare, so you can see your workpiece-and where you are cutting-better. No more polished cast iron glare! Low Friction Work Surfaces. ArmorGlide reduces friction by 50%, allowing you to move wood across the table with less effort and more control. Rust Resistant. ArmorGlide prevents rust by 99%, removing the need to worry about rust, and letting you ditch that steel wool! Maintenance Free. ArmorGlide eliminates the need for waxes or cleaning supplies. Simply wipe the table with a cloth and continue working. For More Information If you have questions about Powermatic's new ArmorGlide Technology, please email our Tech Support folks at tech@woodcraft.com, or call 800-535-4486. Check out the array of Powermatic Bandsaws, Table Saws, and Jointers, featuring ArmorGlide.

Our WoodRiver® Dovetail Marker 2.0 is a new and improved version of the original marker that reflects improvements made by the Woodcraft Product Development Team. The WoodRiver® Dovetail Marker 2.0 is the ideal layout tool for anyone that wants to make the perfect dovetails. CNC machined for precision, this marker comes with 4 proportionally marked slopes for both hardwood and softwoods: 1:5, 1:6, 1:8 and 1:10. Become a pro at cutting dovetails with this new marker.Features: CNC machined for precision 4 different proportioned angles: 1:5, 1:6, 1:8, 1:10 Use for both hardwoods and softwoods

Make repeatable thin strips using this WoodRiver® Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. To set it up, install this jig in your table saw miter slot, and simply set the thickness of the strip desired. Measure the distance from the outside of the blade to the sealed bearing and lock the jig in place. Set the fence against the workpiece and rip to size. For repeatable strips, readjust the fence so the workpiece is touching the bearing and repeat the cut. Features: Works with any table saw with a 3/4" miter slot Makes repeatable thin strips Ratchet-like handle for easy hand tightening Anodized for wear protection

New RSC 18 Cordless Recriprocating Saw Is Powerful, Fast, and Durable With its brushless EC-TEC motor, switch-activated, fast-cutting, pendulum stroke and low level of vibration, the saw is smooth as well as fast to easily cut through the toughest materials. Optimized internal mechanism is both long-lasting as well as efficient - directing all of the power into the saw blade and not into the saw for smoother operation and less vibration for even greater control. And in true Festool form, dust extraction is available by means of the included suction adapter to help keep the messiest jobs cleaner.

Festool's CXS/TXS 18 Drills Are Lighter, More Compact and Impressively Powerful The improved CXS/TXS 18 are both small and powerful, our popular compact drill design in either C or T format, now on the 18-volt platform! The CXS 12 compact drill-driver is our new go-to everyday driver for common tasks. By combining our 12-volt battery with our EC-TEC motor, our CXS 12 provides plenty of power in the most compact format. Our 12 Volt battery pack is compatible with all chargers in the 18-volt range, making the choice to upgrade or switch up simply about personal preference! All drills allow Fast tool change with the tool-free FastFix interface and the CENTROTEC system, and all come with clever details like our bit holder, adjustable LED light, belt clip, new systainers with lid compartments, and chuck attachments; making it easy to tackle the most difficult applications—even in narrow spaces or corners.

Thickness tapering For a recent project, I needed 2×6s tapered in thickness. My first thought was to tilt the blade on my table saw, but a fully-raised blade isn’t high enough for the job. So I turned to my thickness planer. I cut a scrap of plywood to serve as an auxiliary table and screwed a cleat to its underside that would hook on the planer’s infeed table and hold the plywood in place. Then I screwed a fence along one side of this auxiliary table. Next, I drew the desired taper on the end of one of the 2×6 pieces to determine the amount of wood I needed to plane away to achieve that taper. I made another piece, this time matching its thickness equal to the amount of wood I needed to plane away. I attached this riser parallel to the fence but offset 5" to the side. To taper the pieces, I made multiple passes through the planer with one edge against the fence and the other edge riding atop the riser. Jeff Peters Redgranite, Wisconsin Improved hose control Instead of using a dust bag, I prefer attaching my orbital sander to a shop vac for the superior dust collection it offers. But wrangling the hose presents challenges of its own. I tried an overhead support but found it limiting for large panels or when I had to move my sanding table. A better solution is to attach the hose to my shop apron. To do so, I added an S-hook to the hose, hooking it to several coils of paracord I’d looped around the hose. My shop apron happened to have a steel ring attached to its right side that I could hook to, but a hammer loop would work as well. Now the hose is well supported and moves with me as I sand, and it’s easy to disengage as needed. David DePauwCincinnati, Ohio Driving threaded inserts Threaded inserts are a great way to add the strength and knockdown capability of nuts and bolts to your wooden creations. But for them to function well, they need to be driven in straight. I’ve found this simple guide makes short work of getting it right. It consists of a block of 8 /4 hard maple (or other suitably dense wood) with a notch cut near one end. Drill a perpendicular hole into the center of that notch, sizing it for a bolt that matches the inside diameter of your inserts. For example, if your inserts take 1/4-20 bolts, drill a 1/4" hole. Then cut the long end of the block down to serve as a handle. To use the guide, slide a 4" bolt through the hole and thread a nut onto its end. Next, thread on the insert and tighten the nut against it to lock it in place. Drill a hole for the insert in your workpiece, making sure it is perpendicular to the surface. Lightly countersink the rim of the hole before driving in the insert with a wrench. Robin CarmichaelWaitsfield, Vermont Heat shrink wrap for clamp handles The older I get, the more trouble I have tightening clamps adequately. The solution came from my other passion: fishing. I wrapped heat shrink fishing rod grips around my clamp handles. This resilient material makes it a lot easier to get good purchase on the slippery wooden surfaces. Dan HendricksSnohomish, Washington

©Sirofchuck Studios - All designs property of Paul Sirofchuck It comes down to passion! Sirofchuck Studios workshop in the woods. For Paul Sirofchuck, it comes down to passion ... a passion for wood, design, furniture, masterful woodworking and of course, family. Sirofchuck has been creating award-winning custom-made furniture and art since 1994. “Nature has inspired me to do more work. Mainly, the wood inspires me.” Paul with chisel and mallet building a custom chair. Sirofchuck has been on a creative journey from an early age to where he is today owning Sirofchuck Studios. By appreciating nature, experiencing trial and error, honing his skills and putting in a lot of hard work, he developed a distinct contemporary-organic style of woodworking. It didn’t happen overnight ... it all took time, study and refinement. His efforts and perseverance have paid off. Early on, Paul would enter pieces in juried art competitions and win numerous awards. That’s when he began to build a reputation and clients. Paul is an architect, designer and craftsman from Ligonier, PA. He grew up in western PA and went on to study architecture at Temple University, where he met his wife Mandy, an accomplished stained glass artist. Together, they own the Main Exhibit Gallery on Main Street in the quaint town of Ligonier, PA. Chairs and templates hanging high in the sunlit Sirofchuck workshop. “I liked doing woodworking since I was a kid,” said Paul. His father had a shop in their basement growing up. That's where it all started. His first project was a bench. After Paul graduated from Temple, he worked as an architect for twelve years in Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, but wasn’t feeling fulfilled. He had to make a change. Paul Sirofchuck was featured on the September 2023 Woodcraft Premium catalog. “It came down to passion: I loved wood.” “I wasn’t getting where I wanted to be,” said Paul. “I would doodle on my sketch pad at lunch and I couldn’t wait to get home so I could feed my passion and make something.” He began to make some chairs in his spare time. Paul built his first chair in 1992. It was built in a 10 x 10 shed in Philadelphia, where they lived at the time. He sold a few chairs and decided it was time to make the jump to woodworking. Basically a self-taught woodworker, he only had a minimal amount of tools at first and later began to accumulate them. In fact, one of the first projects that Paul felt important to build was a fine cabinet/tool chest to house and organize some of his growing collection of woodworking tools. That project that he built, he still uses today. Once he started as a full-time woodworker, he said he realized that a good joiners bench was a necessity with proper vices to hold the work. One of the first projects that Paul built was a cabinet/tool chest to house and organize his woodworking tools. He shared that you can do a lot with just a few tools when you have to. It can become interesting, but it is possible. Later, Paul designed and built their home outside Ligonier. His woodworking takes place down a wooded lane in his magical eclectic workshop, tucked amongst the trees. The Sirofchuck workshop environment is unbelievable. Every nook and cranny filled with wood, jigs hung up high, clamps and hand tools, each in their special places. It’s an awesome, somewhat organized accumulation of woodworking treasures from over the years. Santa’s workshop has nothing on this place. Natural light illuminates the main work area from windows high above the shop. An old local high school shop work bench from the 1950s, full of character, serves as Paul’s main work surface. The Sirofchuck saw mill is not far from the workshop. They have their own on-site mill, harvesting wood off of their and their neighbors properties. They have a kiln, but usually prefer to stack and air-dry the wood. The shop has a hallway with both sides filled with gorgeous wood slabs and boards waiting for their next life in a wooden creation. Their own harvested lumber stacked and stored for future use. “I remember a lot of the wood and where I got it,” commented Paul. “We’ve gotten a little crowded over time,” he reflected as he pulled out a Red Oak board. As far as preference, Paul likes Cherry, Maple and Walnut and enjoys working with burl and live-edge pieces. When designing, he likes to work in miniature. He’ll spend a lot of time cutting pieces on a bandsaw to get just the right shape or curve that he is looking for and making small models, only a few inches high. Also, sketching is part of the routine. “Most of my designs are all intuition. When it looks right or feels right ... then I know it’s right.” Sirofchuck furniture and sculpture designs often show organic shapes with symmetry playing an important role such as shown in the pieces above. Left to right. Red Ball I Sculpture, Mirror Runs Through It, Occasional Chair and Red Ball II Sculpture. Sirofchuck furniture. Left to right, Creative Proximity Desk and Rolling Desk Chair, Currents Credenza, Raeff Chair, and Ottoman. Paul doesn’t just build chairs, tables and cabinets. He also creates credenzas, bookcases, mirrors, desks and sculptures. He even makes pepper mills, boxes, cutting boards and many other projects. Left to right. Burl Coffee Table, Diverging Paths Chest of Drawers, Confluence Split Cabinet and Desk and Chair. We’ve highlighted Paul and his work. Let’s now dovetail in the rest of the family, who are highly talented in their own right. You might say that creativity is a family trait. Paul’s wife, Mandy, is a highly successful stained glass artist. She’s been doing that since 1984. Mandy got hooked on stained glass after writing a high school research paper on the topic. She has a degree in journalism, and was a graphic designer and a copy writer before turning her concentration to stained glass. Saturday Morning, leaded stained glass three panel divider screen by Mandy Sirofchuck. Stained glass pieces by Mandy Sirofchuck. Left to right. St Joseph, Farewell and Cor Immaculata. Their daughter, Clair Sirofchuck Maier, is a wonderful painter and illustrator. She also runs their family owned Main Exhibit Gallery & Art Center in Ligonier. Their gallery displays many quality items for sale such as furniture, paintings, stained glass, ceramics, jewelry, baskets, quilts and crafts, just to name a few. These items are created by local and regional artists. Also, the Art Center in the gallery offers many classes, including pottery, stained glass, painting and print making, and also has kid art camps. Their offerings change; check back often. Clair Maier paintings. Left to right. Pleinaire Home Sketch and Bushy Tailed. Clair Maier paintings. Left to right. Big Moose Lake and Across the Sky. One of their family’s recent art shows was the “In Our Elements” show that featured works in wood, glass and painting at the Southern Alleghenies Museum of Art in Ligonier with works by Paul and Mandy as well as their daughter, Clair. Check out the video featuring some of the Sirofchuck family's creations. Christopher Maier and Paul Sirofchuck clamp a piece of furniture. Clair met her husband, Christopher Maier, while attending St. Vincent College. Christopher has been assisting Paul in the workshop and working on mastering the art of dovetailing. “It’s pretty sweet,” stated Christopher about learning from his father-in-law Paul, “He’s a great teacher.” Christopher is learning the finer aspects of furniture making. Paul commented that Christopher already knows more than he did at that age. His future looks bright. It seems that creative people are beginning to rediscover working with their hands. There’s just something about it. Woodworking, pottery, painting, sewing -- ­there’s an age-old appreciation for developing those creative talents. The Main Exhibit Gallery in Ligoneer, PA offers furniture, paintings, stained glass, ceramics, jewelry, baskets, quilts and crafts for sale. Paul suggests to beginning woodworkers to not be afraid: just try it. For instance, learning to cut dovetails; just get some scrap wood and start to learn good hand tool skills and technique. Get a good plane, saw and a set of chisels. They are essential. Learn how to maintain and sharpen them. You can pick up old tools at yard sales and auctions; learn how to refurbish them. Don’t be afraid to take some classes and go to demos, and work on some small projects. It’s awesome to see the creations of the Sirofchuck family. Their work is inspiring. We hope you feel inspired as well. You may be the next aspiring artist or craftsman on your creative journey following your passion. Check out sirofchuckstudios.com and mainexhibitgallery.com.

The CSC SYS 50 - Precision Sawing Where You Need It, When You Need It Festool's new CSC SYS 50 Cordless Table Saw is just as versatile in use, as it is tremendously convenient in size. It is the ultimate in portable precision. Incredibly portable, the CSC SYS 50 cordless table saw produces shop-quality cuts on the job site, has built-in dust collection, and fits in its own Systainer®. Precise cuts at the press of a button. Set the height and angle accurately to a tenth of a millimeter with unique digital operation. As powerful as a corded saw. The 2x18V dual-battery system, in combination with the brushless EC-TEC motor, has maximum power and torque.

Precision routing at the touch of a button Shark RS1000 Pro PRICE: $1,699.99, #184575 OVERVIEW: 3-1/2" vertical travel Up to 12" fence travel Programmed for popular router tasks Adjusts by as little as .001" Runs on 115v power Next Wave—maker of a full line of three- and even four-axis CNC machines —has gone two-dimensional, adapting their computer-controlled positioning systems for router table use. The RS1000 Pro is Next Wave’s innovative two-axis CNC router control system that makes precise, complicated, or repetitive router table operations simple and accurate. At the heart of the system is a computer-controlled router lift coupled with a servo-motorized fence. Like traditional CNC machines, the RS1000 includes a touchplate that tells the computer the bit’s location in relation to both the table and the fence. After locating the bit, the included pendant allows precise movement in both axes—raising or lowering the bit and moving the fence in or out by as little as .001" at the press of a button. The extruded aluminum fence is stout and square, and faced with replaceable MDF faces. T-track on the fence’s face and top provide mounting points for jigs and clamps, while an optional swivel miter gauge rides atop the fence, rather than on the table. The fence armature includes a 2-1/4" dust port and provides 6" of travel on a standard 24"-deep router table, or up to 12" of travel on a deeper table. And while the router lift is attached to a standard 9-1/4 × 11-3/4" plate, I found that its mounting holes don’t line up with pre-drilled holes in the ledges of some pre-fab tabletops. Next Wave gets around this by including a set of Kreg router table plate levelers, but you could also modify your existing tabletop. The lift, however, is compatible with any standard 3-1/2"-diameter router motor. It provides up to 3-1/2 inches of up-and-down travel at the touch of a button. Where the machine truly separates itself from standard router lifts, though, is in its functionality. The pendant comes pre-programmed with over a dozen common router applications—box joints, half-blind dovetails (both pins and tails), lock miters, biscuit slots, flutes, and dadoes among them. With the touch of a few buttons, the router system can be set up to cut complex joinery without the need for special jigs. I quickly cut box joints by selecting the included app on the pendant. I punched in my bit diameter, zeroed the height and fence with the touchplate, then told the system my board dimensions. The computer did the math and adjusted the fence and bit accordingly. After one pass, I tapped the screen and the fence moved precisely in preparation for the next pass. With all the fingers of one board cut, a tap reset the fence to cut the mating fingers. While I used the optional miter gauge to guide my piece along the fence, you could easily employ a follower block instead. Other apps were equally user-friendly. In addition to the included apps, the pendant includes programmable memory locations for commonly used settings. The interface quickly become intuitive, displayed on a clear and responsive 4" color LCD touchscreen. And manufacturer’s videos are available online to walk you through each app step-by-step. For simple routing operations, both fence and bit can be moved incrementally or by inputting a specific dimension, either as fractions or decimals so there’s no need to convert, or switch to metric input. My only qualm is that the unit does not include a remote motor start, so you need to ether turn on the router beneath your table or install a third-party remote switch. Aside from that, the level of precision this machine has brought to my shop is well worth the admittedly significant investment. —Tester, Derek Richmond KING INDUSTRIAL 10" BENCHTOP HELICAL-HEAD JOINTER King’s 10" benchtop jointer features a helical cutter head with 20 four-sided replaceable inserts. The 30-1⁄2" long cast iron tables incorporate retractable extensions bringing overall length to 53-1⁄2". A parallelogram table system makes for easy adjustment, while an aluminum adjustable tilting fence and 1HP motor make for easy jointing of wide boards.kingcanada.com, $999.00 JET 22" OSCILLATING DRUM SANDER Jet added an industry-first left-right oscillating feature to its auto-feed belt sander. The 22" long oscillating drum gives a smoother finish while reducing loading and burning. The drum’s oscillating speed can be adjusted or turned off. The adjustable-speed conveyor monitors loading and alerts when speed or height should be adjusted. The 13⁄4 HP motor runs on 115v power.woodcraft.com, $2,999.99 #166646 WHITESIDE THE WORKS CNC BITS Designed specifically for CNC work, this 14-bit set includes upcut and compression spirals, two v-groove, two liners, and two ball-nose bits, plus a surfacing bit. Designed to cut wood, composites, plastic, and even aluminum. whitesiderouterbits.com, $472.00

The HV5700 is a stationary HVLP fine finishing sprayer designed for woodworking enthusiasts. It provides a smooth and professional finish for your woodworking projects. The upgraded Pro6 all-metal spray gun has the adjustability to allow you to achieve an ultra-fine finish, and the 2.2 PSI turbine has the power to spray a variety of coatings, including poly, varnish, shellac, lacquer and more.

Kutzall’s durable carbide coatings will last job after job. Whether you are a casual hobbyist or professional craftsman, shaping dishes are the perfect tool for concave shaping, giving you effortless control while saving you time. Their rounded form and rapid cutting action make them excellent for contouring sculpted chairs, large bowls, even dimensional lumber. For free-hand grinding and shaping, you can expect to “Do It All, With Kutzall.”

This jig was created to get the most out of your skill level, with adaptive features you can adjust to suit any project. It works perfectly with your projects and your workspace, thanks to a unique design that adapts and adjusts however you need it to. Clamping is more intuitive than ever with VersaGrip™. Squeeze the handle until your 1/2"- to 1-1/2"-thick material is securely clamped. Handle rotates 360° to suit any building setup. Keep your workpiece secure, and prevent shifting with GripMaxx™ anti-slip material construction. Work confidently with a sturdy, long-lasting jig that features a steel-reinforced spine.

Attention to detail is one of every great woodworker’s characteristics. Details just got more noticeable with the new WoodRiver® Shop Light that features 60 ultra-efficient LEDs for a clean white light and a 3X diopter that allows the user to view the finest of details. The head has a 5" viewing area, which is covered by a locked-when-flipped dust cover, and the head joint is adjustable to provide a 180° rotation. Our WoodRiver Shop Light’s 32" swing arm is fully encased in hard plastic and has three tension joints for an incredibly smooth action. The base clamp is easily adjustable and will fit most desks with its 2-3/4" clearance opening.

The 16" 3Cr13 stainless steel straight edge, extremely sharp beveled blade halves a pizza pie in one pass. Cutter’s rocking motion makes it easy to use, and since the center of force is concentrated over the blade, it applies twice the downward force compared to conventional cutlery. Features: Easy to use Simple to clean Make fast work of cutting a pizza pie Center of force is concentrated over the blade Versatile handle design allowing for your choice of either one long handle or two short ones

Charcuterie Boards are all the rage right now and you can get loads of brownie points by making these as gifts for all of your friends. In this video I make one out of some Peruvian Walnut and some gorgeous curly Ambrosia Maple using the WoodRiver Charcuterie Board Router Template. You'll see how the template makes it super simple to add a nice handle to your charcuterie board or other project. All you need is a workpiece that's 7 & 1/4 inches wide and whatever length you want but I probably wouldn't go much shorter than 16 inches. Use the template with a 3/8" router bushing and a 1/4" router bit to get nice clean edges. The funky handle with the curve can be reversed to allow two different boards to nest together end to end. Nothing is stopping you from using the curved handle on both ends making a giant charcuterie board train out of all of your favorite woods!!! Finishing it up however you like, but I've been obsessed with Osmo recently, it's durable, food safe, and easy to repair if it gets damaged in the future.

It clamps to a 7-1/4"-wide workpiece to provide a safe and repeatable method for cutting a unique handle profile into either a charcuterie or a cutting board. The curved handle is reversible, allowing for a mating charcuterie board to be nested end-to-end. Create two different handle profiles by using the template with a plunge router, 3/8" router bushing, and 1/4" straight bit (all three sold separately).Features: Use to make a charcuterie board or add a custom handle to a cutting board Template machined from 5/16" thick clear acrylic with two clamping slots Cuts two different handle profiles using a handheld plunge router For use with 3/8" router bushing and 1/4" straight router bit (sold separately) Template is held firmly in place with WoodRiver Track Clamps (#163683, sold separately)

Use this WoodRiver® Circle Cutting Router Jig to cut circles from 2-1/2" diameter to 32-1/2" diameter with most any plunge router equipped to accept a Porter-Cable style guide bushing. Instead of bolting the router to the jig using a dedicated bolt pattern, simply install the included precision guide bushing into your router base and lower the router onto the sealed bearing of the circle jig base. Circles can be cut smoothly and easily as the router glides through the cutting motion without tangled cords or dust collection hose. Cutting radius is adjustable through locking the tailstock along the 1/2" steel guide rods.

A basic build of a crucial table saw accessory A miter gauge is a great tool for crosscutting on the table saw, especially if outfitted with an auxiliary fence. But wide pieces force the miter gauge off the front of the saw table, creating an unsafe situation. And long pieces tend to drag on the table, making cuts inaccurate. For these reasons and more, most serious woodworkers make a custom crosscut sled for their saw. A sled does everything the miter gauge does, but better. With its broad base, long fence, and double runners, a sled carries workpieces of all sizes smoothly and accurately past the blade with no wobbles, as opposed to dragging them. This makes the sled the more accurate option for workpieces of all sizes, but especially larger ones. The fence also carries the offcut safely past the blade, and provides a place to clamp stop blocks. And the zero-clearance blade slot in the base and fence eliminates tearout on both the bottom and trailing edge of the workpiece. Making a crosscut sled is not complicated. However, it does entail a couple of exacting procedures, including setting the runners and adjusting the fence, both of which are critical to successful operation of the sled. Not to worry: I’ve got great ways to tame each of these challenges. Follow along here and I’ll show you one of the easiest approaches for outfitting your particular saw with this crucial accessory. I think you’ll be amazed at how much control it provides and the smooth, accurate cuts it delivers. Five components assembled for accuracy This simple sled consists of a plywood base, two hardwood runners, and two fences made of MDF. For accurate operation, the sled’s base must be flat and the runners perfectly fit to your saw’s miter gauge slots. The front fence is made of two layers of MDF glued together to ensure that it’s dead-flat and stable when set perfectly square to your saw blade. The fences are shaped to reduce weight and provide easier handling of workpieces. Base dimensions and runner placement are provisional; suit them to your particular saw. Order of Work Make base and runners Attach runners Make fences Attach fences Test accuracy Make the base and runners I used construction-grade plywood I had on hand for the base, but hardwood plywood is flatter, smoother, and not as heavy as MDF. I made this sled for use on a Bosch jobsite saw, sizing the base at 24 × 36", which is about as large as the saw will safely handle. A full-size table saw can take a larger sled.Make the runners from straight-grained hardwood. To size the runners for a perfect fit in your table slots, start by planing a board so its edge drops smoothly into the slots. If you lack a planer, you can saw a runner blank as shown. Then rip away the runners to be just a bit shallower than the slot depth. If necessary, you can scrape or sand the runners for a better fit in the slots. Table saw option for perfect runners. If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can create accurate runner stock on your table saw. Starting with a straight, pre-surfaced hardwood board (available at lumber retailers) 1" or thicker, run it on edge against your rip fence as shown, to trim a section to thickness (left). Start fat, then readjust the fence to creep up on a perfect fit (right). Then lay the board flat to rip away the runner strips you need, making them slightly thinner than the slots are deep. Attach the runners To attach the runners, you’ll place them in their slots, tack the base to them, then add screws to the underside. But begin by drilling and countersinking five clearance holes in each runner to accept #6 × 1" flathead screws. Locate the runners and base as shown, then mark the runner locations across the top of the base. Next, drive four 1" brads through the base into each runner to hold it in place for subsequent screwing. Screw the ends of the runners as shown, then upend the assembly to install the rest of the screws. Afterward, wax the runners. Runner location. Align one end of each runner with the front edge of the saw table. Shim the runners from underneath with coins if necessary to bring them flush to the saw table surface. Place the base. Align one long edge of the base with the edge of the saw table, with the left side of the base about 15" from the blade. Mark the runner locations and then clamp the setup in place. Tack the runners. Drive brads into the runners. This will prevent the runners from shifting as you screw them to the base in the next step, preventing slight curves that will make them bind in their slots. Use 1" brads and don’t drive them too deeply. Screw the ends... With brads temporarily holding the runners to the base, cantilever the setup off the rear of the saw and drive a screw through the runner into the base. Repeat at the front. …then the center. You can now turn the assembly over and install the rest of the screws to fix the runners in place along their length, with the brads keeping them straight as you do so. Make and attach the fences It’s critical that the front fence be straight and stable over its life, in order for it to guide workpieces accurately. The best method I’ve found is to laminate two pieces of 3/4" MDF together (the rear fence can be a single layer of MDF). If the MDF is slightly curved, reverse the curves against each other when gluing the two pieces together. Then rip both fences’ edges straight and square before sawing out the humped area as shown in the drawing on page 47. I cut the straight sections on the table saw, stop-cutting as shown, then finished up with a jigsaw to shape the humps. Finally, sand out the saw marks. In preparation for attaching the fences, drill countersunk clearance holes for #6 screws. One exception: at the left-hand front of the base, drill an oversized clearance hole with a shallow counterbore as shown. As you’ll see, this will allow for adjusting the front fence dead-square to the blade. Next, fully screw the base to the rear fence after drilling pilot holes to prevent splitting the MDF. Then attach the right-hand end of the front fence with a single flathead screw, and the left-hand end with a large panhead screw. Fence stop-cuts. To cut the low fence shoulders on the table saw, make stop-cuts that terminate at layout lines. For safety, use a splitter or a riving knife as shown above and turn off the saw at the end of the cut, letting the blade stop completely before retracting the workpiece. Fence attachment prep. After marking the fence locations on the bottom of the base, drill countersunk clearance holes for #6 screws to ensure they will pull the fence down tightly and sit below the plywood surface. Fence adjustment hole. The left-hand end of the front fence gets attached with a panhead screw that sits in a counterbore. Drill an oversized clearance hole for it to allow initial pivoting of the fence to square it to the saw blade. Adjust the front fence For the sled to work accurately, the front fence needs to sit precisely square to the saw blade. My approach is to initially attach the fence with a single screw at each end. To provide adjustability, the single screw at the fence’s right-hand end serves as a pivot, while the panhead screw sitting in its oversized hole on the opposite end allows a bit of angle adjustment. Once test-cuts prove a square setting, install the rest of the screws in the front fence to lock it into place. Initial blade slot. After attaching the front fence with a flathead “pivot screw” at one end and a panhead screw through an oversized hole at the other end, cut through the rear fence and base, stopping at the front fence. Initial fence adjustment. Place a very accurate square against the fence and blade to check for perpendicularity, making sure the square rests against the blade plate, not the teeth. If necessary, loosen the panhead screw, and pivot the fence to bring it square to the blade. Then lock down the screw. Crosscut test. Mark one face of a wide board that has been ripped with straight, parallel edges. Then, with the fence still attached with just one screw at each end, make a test cut (left). Flip one of the halves over edge-for-edge, pull both pieces against the fence, and abut their cut edges (right). If there’s no gap, you’re square. Any gap represents twice the angle error, so go easy when readjusting the fence to try again. When the cuts are square, add the rest of the screws to the front fence, locking it permanently in place. Using the sled There’s a reason this sled is longer on its right side. It’s because most saw tables are longer to the right of the blade to accommodate wide rip fence settings. So, just as with ripping, you’ll make most of your crosscuts with the workpiece primarily to the right of the blade, supported by the longer section of the sled’s fence. In addition to general crosscutting, the fence also provides a great place to clamp stop blocks for repeat cuts. If your workpiece reaches past the end of the sled, you can employ an extending hook-style stop as shown below and on p. 47. Because a sled carries both parts of a separated workpiece past the blade, it tends to be safer than using a miter gauge. That said, a crosscut sled still demands caution, with particular attention paid to the area where the blade exits the front fence. Some woodworkers attach a box or large block of wood at that spot, or paint a big red stripe there, to be sure their fingers never stray into the danger zone. Feel free to add this extra measure of safety. Stop block for fast accuracy. A stop block clamped to the fence makes for efficient, dead-accurate, repeatable crosscuts. A long hang-out. For repeatable sawing of workpieces longer than the fence, attach an L-shaped, hooked extension that rides the sled fence. More from Asa This second book in the “Build Stuff with Wood” series adds essential machine and hand tools, taking woodworkers to the intermediate level. “Build More Stuff with Wood” includes essential joinery techniques and fresh design ideas. Learn new skills while making 12 new projects for the home and shop.

16 ways to put the squeeze on unusual projects Whoever first said you can never have too many clamps may have just been one bar clamp short when gluing up a case for a cabinet job. It seems you could always use another. But when I think about that phrase, specific-use clamps come to mind. Sure, we have a lot of F-style clamps, pipe clamps, parallel jaw clamps, quick grips, and maybe even some spring clamps and handscrews. But traditional clamps don’t always fit the bill when you need something more job-specific to bring your unique projects together. With that in mind, I’ve corralled a handful of must-have specialty clamps to add to your collection. Pony Canvas Band Clamp This clamp is designed for large cabinets and features a wide canvas band with a cast-iron self-locking mechanism and handle. Pull it from both sides before cranking the handle to tighten. $39.98 | #6210 WoodRiver 1⁄4" T-Track Hold Down Clamps Clamps aren’t only for glue-ups: this handy hold-down is perfect for jigs. Its aluminum body fits standard T-tracks, and its steel screw securely holds work up to 2" thick. $36.99 | #163683 Bora 90° Quick Release Corner Clamp The die-cast aluminum jaws are great for gluing corner joints or holding workpieces for drilling. Bolt the unit to a surface for increased stability. The handles pivots 90° for added torque when tightening.$44.99 | #157914 WoodRiver Miter Max Corner Clamp This clever clamp simplifies inevitable home improvement projects such as installing door and window casings. A half turn of the lever tightens brass jaws with steel teeth to draw miter joints tight. $81.99 | #157448 WoodRiver 3" Edgeband Spring Clamp Combining the mobility of spring clamps, and the flexibility of rubber bands, these are perfect for edgebanding plywood shelves. But they’re also handy for odd jobs like wrangling extension cords.$7.99 | #182796 Bessey Face Frame Cabinetry Clamp Designed to hold faceframes of side-by-side cabinets together and flush during installations. It fits 11⁄2"- to 2"-wide stiles up to 11⁄4" thick. Plus there’s a pilot-hole drilling guide on one end. $29.99 | #162956 WoodRiver 6" Quick ViseAttach this portable vise to your bench using T-track clamps (p. 29) for a simple set-up. Non-marring jaws with “V” notches hold various shapes tightly and release using the quick-action lever.$39.99 | #182067 Automaxx Right Angle Clamp Pocket hole joinery makes cabinet construction easy, and this clamp adds speed and accuracy. It automatically fits to case parts and holds them perfectly square, freeing your hands to drive the screws. $44.99 | #162023 Milescraft FenceClampsBest friend to any auxiliary fence. The arm fits into a 3⁄8" hole, eliminating feed interference at the table saw or router table. They come in pairs but use one for stops or step-off blocks.$13.99 | #169340 WoodRiver 4-Way Pressure Clamping System Keeping edge-glued panels such as cutting boards and tabletops flat and flush is fast and easy with this clamping system. Screw the clamps to any length of 2 × 2 to apply four-way pressure on stock up to 6" thick. $44.99 | #125392 WoodRiver Rubber Band Clamp A champion for challenging glue-ups, these thick, wide bands contort to just about any shape to hold your odd-shaped projects together. The package includes 7", 9", 12", and 14" lengths. $11.99 | #127950 Microjig MATCHFIT Dovetail Fixture and Jig Clamps These work-holding wonders are virtual virtuosos in the shop. The dovetail-shaped leg fits into a dovetail slot cut into any shop-made table, jig, fence, clamp, or hold-down you can dream up. Two in a pack. $45.00 | #163976 EHOMA 71⁄2" T-Track Clamp w/Screw Handle Any standard 1⁄4" T-track makes this specialized clamp simple and speedy to use. Clamp your track saw tracks in place or secure work at fixtures such as your drill press table. $19.99 | #183508 EHOMA 71⁄2" T-Track Clamp w/Ratcheting Handle Just as versatile as the clamp above but with a nifty handle. Its ratcheting operation works well as a quick hold-down for many different tasks, making it a cinch to pinch parts or pieces. $33.99 | #183509 WoodRiver Quick Bar T-Track Clamp—6" Another small T-track clamp but with the same action design as quick-grip bar clamps. Like others in this group, the non-marring clamp pad secures your project without harming its surface.$19.99 | #183864