Finesse Your Bandsaw Into a Scrollsaw

By Mark Duginske Updated on: September 25, 2023 Published on: August 15, 2016

While my bandsaw is regularly used for ripping and resawing, having the ability to use smaller blades would certainly increase the tool’s versatility. I prefer the bandsaw over a scrollsaw because it’s faster, capable of sawing thicker stock, and doesn’t pick up the wood and cause it to chatter in mid-cut. However, the problem with using narrow width blades on the bandsaw is that the blade’s teeth can get damaged the second you start the saw, if the metal guides are not set perfectly or mid way into a cut, should the blade deflect into the steel blocks. The Carter Stabilizer solves both problems.

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Carter’s Stabilizer bandsaw guide provides stability when cutting with blades 1/4" or less in width. The design consists of a bracket that supports a roller on a bearing with a groove in the middle where the blade rides. The bottom guide (below the table) is retracted, allowing the Stabilizer to control the blade from the top guide position.

THE SETUP: On the standard 14" bandsaw, simply loosen one screw to remove the top guide holder and slip the Stabilizer in the slot as shown above. Setup takes a minute. If you own or are purchasing a Carter full guide kit then it’s as easy as sliding out the upper guide and sliding in the Stabilizer, and at this point you’re ready to cut.

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Setup for bandsaws larger than the standard 14" models is more involved because the large bearing guides are hard to adjust for small blades.

TRIAL RUN: Before I cut wood, I made sure the small blade tracked in the center of the tires with the guide retracted so nothing touches the blade. Now, run the saw to see if the blade tracks correctly. Next, advance the Stabilizer so that it touches the blade and the blade is centered in the groove. Advance the Stabilizer forward about 1/8" so that it pushes the blade forward.

Finally, check that the blade still tracks in the middle of the top wheel. You may need to angle the top wheel back slightly. The pressure further stabilizes the blade and also prevents it from coming forward if you back out of a cut.

I used the stabilizer to cut 3/4" stock for patterned box back and experienced no blade deflection or angled cuts. On 11/2" pine I went slower with the same good result.

BEST APPLICATIONS: The Stabilizer cannot be used for pierced scrollsawing, but it does come in handy when cutting out patterned pieces that have a lot of tight turns.

TESTER’S TAKE: There is no perfect guide system for every situation. This product helps you cut tight curves with narrow blades. For straight cuts and joinery (for example, tenons and dovetails), you’ll want to stick with a wider blade.

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